![]() ![]() I got spoiled using this type of light from working on older ignition systems when it was hard enough to read the TDC mark let alone the DEG marks on the harmonic balancer. With this type of Timing light you ignore all other marks and just use TDC mark or the OT mark on the airhead. You know what is odd is that My old MT241 snap on advance light read correctly on this bike. If i can find one on E Bay cheap enough I may grab it I read your other post about this timing light and you said the spark splitter isn't worth the trouble.īut does it work to make the light read correctly when you do use it in this application (meaning not having to double the settings) You are correct set it to 12 to check For 6 deg (S) low Idle and 64 to check for 32 deg max adv (F) 3500 RPM because of the wasted spark Like you said when I started advancing the setting on the timing light it steadied right up. It would be nice to permanently mount one under the hood of a muscle car, LED at the harmonic balancer.I guess when it was not showing a steady reading set to zero I assumed it wouldn't work at all. This site ripped off the schematic Pre-amp, one-shot and LED array driver. There are schematics of it floating around the web, it's free to look at the Circuit Notebook or next url they want money, confusing. I did like Silicon Chip magazine's automotive LED timing light May 2005. Who even needs a MCU in a timing light? I guess it could pre-flash for longer duration but that still makes a blur. Features: Perfect for hot rod and muscle car enthusiasts Measures battery voltage (10-16 V) Comes with a hard case for storage and protection. ![]() Snap On is expensive, but no protection at the IC inputs, so too late to fix. They had to be tossed in the garbage bin and management never again tried any product development, they were so pissed off. I've seen engineers do a SMPS with custom thick film modules and after getting 20,000pcs in, a design bug is found. The NRE cost is very high and the design has to be rock solid because there are high minimum order quantities. ![]() When you see a thick-film module like that, you know it's a good concept to make it small and cheap but very high risk. The output from this yellow rock goes off directly into the micro pin with just a couple of capacitors to ground as it travels the 10 inches or so from handle to micro. The question is really, is that one ohm reasonable under any circumstance? I cannot think of one situation where a small, dual opamp like this would only have one ohm between two output pins. See Auction Information for full details. Looking at the datasheets they don't seem that dissimilar so I stuck one in and now no flashing at all. View Item in Catalog Lot 101 (Sale Order: 103 of 471) Sold for: 90.00 to onsite 'Tax, Shipping & Handling and Internet Premium not included. Opamp suitably discorporate and joined the dust that is ever present in our polluted planet and the one ohm is still there so it is in the circuit under the yellow rock. So now I either try to remove more yellow rock to gain access to the circuit or I remove the opamp and buzz again. This does not (to me) seem very sensible. Once I got access to the opamp pins I was able to buzz out a few things and it seems that the two outputs have a resistance of only one ohm between each other. There was an eight pin DIL lump under the yellow so I carefully ground it away and it was as I expected, an LM393N dual opamp. That leaves me with this CRL8645M thing, a yellow blob and that yellow stuff is HARD. White is connected to ground and white > red and white > black give me differential signals from the inductive pickup so I am assuming that part is OK. The inductive pickup has three wires, red, black and white. item 1 Snap On MT1261A Computerized Tach Advance Inductive Pick-Up Timing Light Snap On MT1261A Computerized Tach Advance Inductive Pick-Up Timing Light 159. The symptoms are that it will not flash when connected to a vehicle but it does flash if I stick a wire through the inductive pickup and step input a couple of amps so bulb and Xenon circuit, micro, rev counter and all the workings seem to be OK. ![]()
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